A walk
down Pitt Street
Pitt
Street, or Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling, is one of the four major streets in the
Original ‘Francis Light Grid’ It is said that the choice of name for this
street came as an afterthought. After naming the first street of his settlement
after himself that is ‘Light Street’, he named the town after the British
monarch King George III. Light realised that he may have offended the prime
minister for not naming anything after him. Hence, he decided to name Pitt
Street after then Prime Minister, William Pitt the Younger. I wonder why the
name ‘the Younger’? Probably it was because he became the youngest Prime
Minister in 1783 at the age of 24.
Pitt
Street has a lot of fond memories for me, as this was the street where I first
stayed on arriving in Penang. This is also the street where the famous Rawthers
stayed and ran their businesses.
Pitt
Street wears a European character. It was here, where the earliest British
officers had their homes. By the middle part of the 18th century, as the
Europeans moved into the suburbs (to North Beach and then later on to Western
Road), the properties along the coast were bought over by wealthy Chinese
tycoons.
Streets
within the grid were pertinently named to reflect the period during which they
were built. Names such as Market Street, King Street, Queen Street and Penang
Street are still used today. All these streets today form the heart of Little
India.
Stevedores from south India lived along parts of King Street, which the
Tamils called "Padavukara Theru" or "the Street of
Boatmen". Market Street, which now forms the heart of the Indian enclave,
was called "Kadai Theru" or "Street of Shops". All races
shared Pitt Street, as this is evident in the places of worship found along the
road.
Lining up along this harmonious street, and all within a stone throw
away from each other, are the St George's Anglican Church, Goddess of Mercy
Temple, the Sri Mahamariamman Temple and the pride of the Indian Muslims-
Kapitan Keling Mosque. This is a silent reminder of the religious harmony that
is sacred to all Penang folks.
These
great landmarks on Pitt Street stood in the very heart of Penang’s infamous
Riots of 1867. The Residence and other surrounding clan houses were intricately
connected through a series of underground tunnels and hidden passages in the
good old days of spice trade.
Chinese
immigrants to Penang brought their traditions with them, including secret
societies, which provided mutual aid and protection for the Chinese
community.
As the societies grew in wealth and power, gang warfare and
extortion rackets became commonplace. Matters came to a head in the Penang
Riots of 1867: for nine days Georgetown was shaken by fighting between the Tua
Peh Kong society, supported by the Malay Red Flag, and the Ghee Hin, allied
with the Malay White Flag.
Police intervention resulted in a temporary truce,
but on August 1, 1867, the headman of the Tua Peh Kong falsely charged the Ghee
Hin and White Flag societies with stealing cloth belonging to Tua Peh Kong
dyers. All hell broke loose, and fighting raged around Armenian, Church and
Chulia streets. Barricades were erected around the Khoo Kongsi, where some of
the fiercest skirmishes occurred.
The fighting was eventually quelled by-
sepoys. (Indian troops) brought in from Singapore by the Governor-General, but
by then hundreds had been killed and scores of houses burned.
Penang Riots |
Let us
forget those ugly scars and start our historical journey along Jalan Masjid Kapitan
Keling, (Pitt Street) from the Esplanade end.
As we enter, just opposite the
Court House is St George's Anglican Church.
With the help of The East India
Company, this church was built in 1816 using convict labour during Colonel J.
A. Bannerman's term as British Governor of Penang. The inspiration behind the
formation of St George church, however, was credited to Rev.
Robert Sparke
Hutchings, a well known educationist and Robert Smith, an engineer and
landscape artist. Rev. Hutchings contributions towards the development of
Penang from an educational perspective are significant.
He founded the Penang
Free School. (I am an old Free and was there during the last British
headmaster-. Mr. J. M. B. Hughes).
protecting the British during the riots |
Rev.
Hutchings, compiled and wrote what were considered the first books on Malay
grammar, in addition to several elementary textbooks and a dictionary mainly
for school use.
The first significant event, which took place in the church
soon after its completion, was the wedding of a W. E. Philips to Janet, the
daughter of Governor Col. Bannerman in 1818.
As we
leave the church, we will enter the working-class Chinese precinct. This is
anchored by the Kuan Yin Teng Temple, which once had an uninterrupted view of
the sea down China Street. It was a predominantly Chinese enclave.
You will
notice that the space after the Kuan Yin Temple broadens. In the old days,
there used to be a police station here, on the site where today you can see
kiosks selling flowers.
Another
great landmark along this road is a Hindu Temple built in 1833. The Sri
Mahamariamman Temple is the oldest Hindu temple in Malaysia, and features
sculptures of gods and goddesses over its main entrance and facade. It is also
known as Mariamman Temple or Queen Street Indian Temple.
Continuing
down Pitt Street, next junction is with Chulia Street, a thoroughfare populated
mostly by communities from the Indian subcontinent.
In the old days, the
junction was known as Simpang Lelong in Malay, or Ellam Muchanthi in Tamil,
both meaning "auctioneer's junction," for auctions were carried out
under the Neem trees. So, no worry for toothbrushes to the Indians whose
tradition was using the branches of Neem trees as toothbrushes.
Upon
crossing Chulia Street, the character of Pitt Street changes again. On the left
side are rows of Muslim jewellery shops almost all on buildings belonging to
the endowment board, while on the right is their main place of worship, the
Kapitan Keling Mosque. This is the Indian Muslim part of town.
The
Kapitan Keling Mosque was named after "Captain Kling", the headman of
the South Indian community, who was appointed by the British administration in
1801.
The first mosque on the site, the predecessor of the present Kapitan
Keling Mosque, was a small "Chulier Mosque" which appeared on a map
of 1798.
Indian sepoys |
According to the history recorded in a report on Muslim trusts in
1904. "In the early days of this Settlement, the Havildars, Jemadars and
Sepoys who constituted the native section of the East India Company's Troops
stationed in Penang, cleared a piece of land and erected an attap mosque on a
portion of it and used another part as a burial ground.
Oral tradition names
the founder of this attap mosque as Major Nador Khan, an East Indian Company
sepoy.
Ah Cheen Street mosque |
The grant of the land given by
Leith stipulated that the land "which have been originally given for
religious purposes is not to be sold or transferred but to revert to the
Honourable Company should it cease to be used for the purposes intended."
Cauder Mydin Merican brought builders and bricks from India to erect the
mosque. He took the matter in hand and collected subscriptions to build the
mosque and also to upkeep the Mosque.
The Captain Kling was thus regarded as
the founder of the mosque. Probably, the sermons and other matters were
conducted in Tamil and so the Acehnese community under the leadership of the
Arab decided to build the Masjid Melayu at Acheen Street in 1808.
Cauder Mydin Merican was a Maraikkayar like the late ex
Indian President - A. P. J. Abdul Kalam.
A walking
distance from Masjid Kapitan Keling is a small road branching from Pitt Street
called Ah Quee Street. Here, a largely forgotten piece of Muslim heritage is
the Madrasah Hamid Arabi, or by its full name Al-Madrasah Al-Mahmoodiyah
Al-Arabia. It is an old Muslim religious school, which is now in a dilapidated
state.
Madrasah Hamid Arabi |
The school was once a leading Islamic religious school and boarding
house for Muslim students.
The right
side of Pitt Street, at the junction with Buckingham Street and Kampung Kolam,
was once known as Tua Chooi T'ee in Hokkien, meaning "big water
tank". This refers to the water tank used by the Muslim community for
ablution.
Kampung
Kolam, the next junction after Buckingham Street from Pitt Street got its name
from the village that was once located there. The village got its name from the
tank, or kolam, in front of the residence of Cauder Mydin Merican, the founder
of the Kapitan Keling Mosque. The villagers were mostly Indian Muslims who can
trace their origin from South Indian districts such as Tanjore.
The
junction of Armenian Street signals another character change for Pitt Street.
This is where Pitt Street ends, and the street following is Cannon Street,
named to commemorate the cannons fired during the Penang Riots of 1867.
An Indian Push cart hawker |
The area
of Pitt Street between Kampung Kolam and Armenian Street used to be full of
coconut groves. You can well imagine the rural nature of Pitt Street back then.
The
End
No comments:
Post a Comment